Ideally, anti‐(photo)ageing concepts should provide maximum efficacy, perfect stability and cosmetic (formulation) elegance. The need for high efficacy paired with excellent stability appeared contradictive but was resolved by designing complete redox systems rather than antioxidants alone. We here introduce a new class of cosmetic redox pairs, each comprising the initial antioxidant plus its oxidation product. The chemical properties of the oxidation product are the key to enabling the system to maintain or even increase its initial efficacy. A series of antioxidant tests were used to carefully characterize single redox pair components for comparison with traditional antioxidants such as vitamin C and E derivatives (DPPH, lipid and TEAC assays). Kinetic studies on the photobehaviour of a selected redox pair were carried out in cosmetic emulsions with solar simulation and monitored by UV spectroscopy and high performance liquid chromatography. Hydroxy dimethoxybenzyl malonate (HDBM) is a pure transparent cosmetic oil. It shows excellent cosmetic stability coupled with extraordinary antioxidant properties. This controlled activity can be explained well by the presence of its oxidation product hydroxy dimethoxybenzylidene malonate (HDBMox), which provides ongoing antioxidant activity plus excellent UVA absorbing properties. The redox pair described here provides the advanced on‐demand benefit of a non‐UV‐absorbing photoprotector that is converted into its UV‐absorbing equivalent upon light exposure.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science – Wiley
Published: Feb 1, 2007
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