his tor y | g i les mac donogh Otto Horcher, Caterer to the Third Reich Among the fine restaurants of europe, Horcher claims an unparalleled status. From 1904 to 1943, it was the place to be seen at in Berlin, and from 1943 until quite recently, Horcher was the place to go in Madrid. There is no restaurant in the history of the twentiethâor indeed anyâcentury that has relocated from one European capital to another without losing a jot of its social exclusivity. Horcher was the creation of Gustav Horcher, who hailed from the Black Forest, still the source of much of Germanyâs best ham, cheese, game, and ï¬sh. When he opened the restaurant in 1904, he injected vitality into Berlinâs restaurant scene. The oldest luxury establishment in the city at that time was Borchardt, where the sinister diplomat Fritz von Holstein invented the veal escalope that still bears his name. Borchardt was in the city center. Horcher situated his restaurant in the Lutherstrasse, the more fashionable west end. The younger members of the Prussian royal houseâ Crown Prince William, in particularâcould be glimpsed at its plush leather banquettes. And so, for a middle-class boy with social
Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture – University of California Press
Published: Jan 1, 2007
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