Otto Horcher, Caterer to the Third Reich

Otto Horcher, Caterer to the Third Reich his tor y | g i les mac donogh Otto Horcher, Caterer to the Third Reich Among the fine restaurants of europe, Horcher claims an unparalleled status. From 1904 to 1943, it was the place to be seen at in Berlin, and from 1943 until quite recently, Horcher was the place to go in Madrid. There is no restaurant in the history of the twentieth—or indeed any—century that has relocated from one European capital to another without losing a jot of its social exclusivity. Horcher was the creation of Gustav Horcher, who hailed from the Black Forest, still the source of much of Germany’s best ham, cheese, game, and fish. When he opened the restaurant in 1904, he injected vitality into Berlin’s restaurant scene. The oldest luxury establishment in the city at that time was Borchardt, where the sinister diplomat Fritz von Holstein invented the veal escalope that still bears his name. Borchardt was in the city center. Horcher situated his restaurant in the Lutherstrasse, the more fashionable west end. The younger members of the Prussian royal house— Crown Prince William, in particular—could be glimpsed at its plush leather banquettes. And so, for a middle-class boy with social http://www.deepdyve.com/assets/images/DeepDyve-Logo-lg.png Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture University of California Press

Otto Horcher, Caterer to the Third Reich

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Publisher
University of California Press
Copyright
Copyright © by the University of California Press
ISSN
1529-3262
eISSN
1533-8622
D.O.I.
10.1525/gfc.2007.7.1.31
Publisher site
See Article on Publisher Site

Abstract

his tor y | g i les mac donogh Otto Horcher, Caterer to the Third Reich Among the fine restaurants of europe, Horcher claims an unparalleled status. From 1904 to 1943, it was the place to be seen at in Berlin, and from 1943 until quite recently, Horcher was the place to go in Madrid. There is no restaurant in the history of the twentieth—or indeed any—century that has relocated from one European capital to another without losing a jot of its social exclusivity. Horcher was the creation of Gustav Horcher, who hailed from the Black Forest, still the source of much of Germany’s best ham, cheese, game, and fish. When he opened the restaurant in 1904, he injected vitality into Berlin’s restaurant scene. The oldest luxury establishment in the city at that time was Borchardt, where the sinister diplomat Fritz von Holstein invented the veal escalope that still bears his name. Borchardt was in the city center. Horcher situated his restaurant in the Lutherstrasse, the more fashionable west end. The younger members of the Prussian royal house— Crown Prince William, in particular—could be glimpsed at its plush leather banquettes. And so, for a middle-class boy with social

Journal

Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and CultureUniversity of California Press

Published: Jan 1, 2007

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