critical reflection | robert iulo my sister nicki and I have been trying to gather our, as yet unwritten, family recipes for the next generation. These aren't the generic Italian-American dishes you find in many restaurants serving the kind of food non-Italians think Italians eat. There's none of that restaurant-style lasagna or ``veal parm'' in our cookbook with their rubbery layers of mozzarella and loads of garlic. For us there's no simple thing called ``spaghetti sauce''; we have dozens of sauces that go with various types of pasta in strict combination. Most of the recipes we include are the ones our grandmother, Nicolina, brought with her to America from Salerno more than a hundred years ago. This is truly la cucina povera, the cooking of the poor. She made use of the bits and pieces the landowners her family worked for didn't want. After they took the best of the seafood and cuts of meat, she used the scraps to make sauce and, with what they called weeds, she made salad. My sister learned to prepare these dishes by spending time in the kitchen with our mother and aunts and by watching and doing. She knows what it
Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture – University of California Press
Published: Apr 1, 2014
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