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Eating Out in Europe: Picnics, Gourmet Dining and Snacks, since the Late Eighteenth Century

mobility within the United States. The World on a Plate does not tackle the colorful stories of African American or Native American foodways or entrepreneurs, and Denker seems unaware that this choice may puzzle readers accustomed to thinking of these cuisines, too, as ethnic. Somewhat jarringly, in a book about immigrants, Denker does include the story of native Texas-Mexicans who invented San Antonio chili. However, he does not treat the Columbian exchange of African, American, and European food between 1500 and 1750. Nor does he include the meats, beers, ales, fruits, breads, and snack foods that Europeans tossed into early nineteenthcentury melting pots, presumably because these foods lost their ethnicity as wider and wider groups adopted them. Is the ethnicity analyzed here also a product of the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries? Denker’s inclusion of a few tantalizing early tales—not only of Tex-Mex chili but also of Chinese chop suey from the mid-nineteenth century— suggests otherwise. It also reminds us that something more than the date of arrival or levels of entrepreneurship affects the mainstreaming of foods from abroad. Some foods apparently remain ethnic much longer than others. Second, while the subtitle of The World on a Plate http://www.deepdyve.com/assets/images/DeepDyve-Logo-lg.png Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture University of California Press

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