Spectral Wave Modeling in Very Shallow Water at Southern Coast of Caspian Sea

Spectral Wave Modeling in Very Shallow Water at Southern Coast of Caspian Sea This study evaluates the capability of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model (version 41.01) in predicting significant wave height and spectral peak energy content for swell waves in very shallow water of surf zone during depth-induced wave breaking and dissipation. The model results were compared with field measurements at five nearshore stations. The results demonstrated that some breaker index formulations were successful for significant wave height prediction in surf zones. However, an incorrect shape of the energy spectrum and overestimated near spectral peak energy content at shallow water stations were obtained using all of the embedded depth-induced wave breaking formulations in SWAN. The dependent breaker index on relative depth (K d) formulation, which was successful in predicting near spectral peak energy content, resulted in an average error of 30%. Finally, this formulation was modified to enhance the model performance in reproducing the spectral peak energy content. . . . . Keywords Caspian Sea Shallow water SWAN Spectral peak energy Coastal processes 1 Introduction The overall evaluation methods are discussed in Section 4 and the simulation results in comparison with the field data are The main objective of this study is to evaluate the validity evaluated in Section 5. http://www.deepdyve.com/assets/images/DeepDyve-Logo-lg.png Journal of Marine Science and Application Springer Journals

Spectral Wave Modeling in Very Shallow Water at Southern Coast of Caspian Sea

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Publisher
Harbin Engineering University
Copyright
Copyright © 2018 by Harbin Engineering University and Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature
Subject
Engineering; Offshore Engineering; Machinery and Machine Elements; Power Electronics, Electrical Machines and Networks; Geotechnical Engineering & Applied Earth Sciences
ISSN
1671-9433
eISSN
1993-5048
D.O.I.
10.1007/s11804-018-0011-y
Publisher site
See Article on Publisher Site

Abstract

This study evaluates the capability of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model (version 41.01) in predicting significant wave height and spectral peak energy content for swell waves in very shallow water of surf zone during depth-induced wave breaking and dissipation. The model results were compared with field measurements at five nearshore stations. The results demonstrated that some breaker index formulations were successful for significant wave height prediction in surf zones. However, an incorrect shape of the energy spectrum and overestimated near spectral peak energy content at shallow water stations were obtained using all of the embedded depth-induced wave breaking formulations in SWAN. The dependent breaker index on relative depth (K d) formulation, which was successful in predicting near spectral peak energy content, resulted in an average error of 30%. Finally, this formulation was modified to enhance the model performance in reproducing the spectral peak energy content. . . . . Keywords Caspian Sea Shallow water SWAN Spectral peak energy Coastal processes 1 Introduction The overall evaluation methods are discussed in Section 4 and the simulation results in comparison with the field data are The main objective of this study is to evaluate the validity evaluated in Section 5.

Journal

Journal of Marine Science and ApplicationSpringer Journals

Published: May 30, 2018

References

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