In the long-wave approximation, we perform the numerical analysis of the plane problem of runup of waves of various shapes on a sloping beach. We study transformations of the shape of waves flooding the beach and in the course of their subsequent rundown. The dependence of maximum elevations and lowerings of the sea level on the parameters of the waves approaching the beach, the depth of the shelf, and the slope of the bottom are investigated. It is shown that the shape of waves affects the amplitude characteristics of oscillations of the coastline. The heights of the vertical runup of waves incident on a sloping beach can be several times higher than the amplitude of waves entering the shelf zone.
Physical Oceanography – Springer Journals
Published: Aug 13, 2011
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