Phase velocities of surface waves in a sea of finite depth

Phase velocities of surface waves in a sea of finite depth Dispersion relations and phase velocities of surface gravity waves, with their non-linearity being considered, have been derived numerically from an equation for a nonvortical incompressible fluid of finite depth. For all the depths being considered, the dispersion relations are readily realized for the wavenumbers smaller than the wavenumber of the basic harmonic. Then the acquired relations tend to increasingly deviate from the linear dispersion relations. This is the case for all the depths and wave steepnesses under discussion. When the depth of the sea diminishes, the deviations dramatically increase in both cases, when waves grow steeper and when the form of the wave spectrum changes from wide to narrow. This also holds for the phase velocity of waves. http://www.deepdyve.com/assets/images/DeepDyve-Logo-lg.png Physical Oceanography Springer Journals

Phase velocities of surface waves in a sea of finite depth

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Publisher
Kluwer Academic Publishers
Copyright
Copyright © 1998 by VSP
Subject
Earth Sciences; Oceanography; Remote Sensing/Photogrammetry; Atmospheric Sciences; Climate Change; Environmental Physics
ISSN
0928-5105
eISSN
0928-5105
D.O.I.
10.1007/BF02525518
Publisher site
See Article on Publisher Site

Abstract

Dispersion relations and phase velocities of surface gravity waves, with their non-linearity being considered, have been derived numerically from an equation for a nonvortical incompressible fluid of finite depth. For all the depths being considered, the dispersion relations are readily realized for the wavenumbers smaller than the wavenumber of the basic harmonic. Then the acquired relations tend to increasingly deviate from the linear dispersion relations. This is the case for all the depths and wave steepnesses under discussion. When the depth of the sea diminishes, the deviations dramatically increase in both cases, when waves grow steeper and when the form of the wave spectrum changes from wide to narrow. This also holds for the phase velocity of waves.

Journal

Physical OceanographySpringer Journals

Published: Oct 28, 2006

References

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