The method of multiple scales is used to deduce equations for three nonlinear approximations of the capillary-gravitational disturbances of the free surface of a layer of a homogeneous liquid of constant depth. In these equations, the space-time variations of the wave profile in the expression for the velocity potential on the liquid surface are taken into account. On this basis, we construct asymptotic expansions up to the quantities of the third order of smallness for the velocity potential and elevations of the liquid surface induced by running periodic waves of finite amplitude. Furthermore, we analyze the dependences of the amplitude-phase characteristics of wave disturbances on the surface tension, depth of the liquid, and the length and steepness of waves of the first harmonic.
Physical Oceanography – Springer Journals
Published: Feb 10, 2006
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