We study probability density models of the sea-surface slopes in which the experimentally observed deviations from the normal distribution are taken into account. It is shown that the approximation of the probability density of slopes by finitely many terms of the Gram–Charlier series (containing the first four moments of the distribution) is true only within a bounded range of wind velocities. For the components of slopes, we propose a simple analytic model of probability density whose parameters are determined by using the experimental estimates of their variance, skewness, and peakedness. The comparison with the data of field measurements shows that the proposed model fairly well describes the actual distributions of the components of slopes.
Physical Oceanography – Springer Journals
Published: Oct 20, 2004
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