The effect of relative crest submergence on wave breaking over submerged slopes

The effect of relative crest submergence on wave breaking over submerged slopes Experiments were performed in a wave flume to measure the intensity, transmission and reflection of waves breaking over a submerged reef with an offshore gradient of 1:10. The results demonstrate that the relative water depth over the reef crest ( h c / H o ) is a dominant factor affecting the breaking characteristics. In particular it is found that as the relative crest submergence is reduced, there is a considerable increase in the intensity of wave breaking over the reef that can be quantified through measurements of the air cavity enclosed beneath the plunging jet. It is also shown that there is a corresponding decrease in wave transmission and reflection as the submergence is reduced. http://www.deepdyve.com/assets/images/DeepDyve-Logo-lg.png Coastal Engineering Elsevier

The effect of relative crest submergence on wave breaking over submerged slopes

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Publisher
Elsevier
Copyright
Copyright © 2008 Elsevier B.V.
ISSN
0378-3839
eISSN
1872-7379
D.O.I.
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.004
Publisher site
See Article on Publisher Site

Abstract

Experiments were performed in a wave flume to measure the intensity, transmission and reflection of waves breaking over a submerged reef with an offshore gradient of 1:10. The results demonstrate that the relative water depth over the reef crest ( h c / H o ) is a dominant factor affecting the breaking characteristics. In particular it is found that as the relative crest submergence is reduced, there is a considerable increase in the intensity of wave breaking over the reef that can be quantified through measurements of the air cavity enclosed beneath the plunging jet. It is also shown that there is a corresponding decrease in wave transmission and reflection as the submergence is reduced.

Journal

Coastal EngineeringElsevier

Published: Dec 1, 2008

References

  • Void fraction measurements in breaking waves
    Blenkinsopp, C.E.; Chaplin, J.R.
  • The solitary wave and its application to surf problems
    Munk, W.H.
  • Wave Transmission at Low Crested Structures
    Van der Meer, J.W.; Angremond, K.

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