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Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Fetch-Limited Waves

Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Fetch-Limited Waves Estimates of the wave directional spectrum of fetch-limited sea states are made from measurements made with a heave––pitch––roll buoy at the Maui location off the west coast of New Zealand. The fetch-limited sea states have significant wave heights between 0.5 and 4.5 m and are observed during persistent southeast wind events, which have a well-defined fetch of 200 km. The integrated properties of the estimated angular spreading distributions are in general agreement with those observed in previous studies. However, the angular distributions estimated for the Maui location are bimodal at frequencies greater than the spectral peak frequency. This result for deep water ocean waves is in contrast to the generally accepted unimodal angular distribution for wind seas, but it supports recently reported measurements of the angular distribution of fetch-limited waves in Lake George, Australia. Parametric relationships that describe the characteristics of the bimodal distributions are derived, and the importance of the bimodality for some applications is discussed. http://www.deepdyve.com/assets/images/DeepDyve-Logo-lg.png Journal of Physical Oceanography American Meteorological Society

Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Fetch-Limited Waves

Journal of Physical Oceanography , Volume 28 (3) – Apr 17, 1997

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Publisher
American Meteorological Society
Copyright
Copyright © 1997 American Meteorological Society
ISSN
1520-0485
DOI
10.1175/1520-0485(1998)028<0495:OOTDSO>2.0.CO;2
Publisher site
See Article on Publisher Site

Abstract

Estimates of the wave directional spectrum of fetch-limited sea states are made from measurements made with a heave––pitch––roll buoy at the Maui location off the west coast of New Zealand. The fetch-limited sea states have significant wave heights between 0.5 and 4.5 m and are observed during persistent southeast wind events, which have a well-defined fetch of 200 km. The integrated properties of the estimated angular spreading distributions are in general agreement with those observed in previous studies. However, the angular distributions estimated for the Maui location are bimodal at frequencies greater than the spectral peak frequency. This result for deep water ocean waves is in contrast to the generally accepted unimodal angular distribution for wind seas, but it supports recently reported measurements of the angular distribution of fetch-limited waves in Lake George, Australia. Parametric relationships that describe the characteristics of the bimodal distributions are derived, and the importance of the bimodality for some applications is discussed.

Journal

Journal of Physical OceanographyAmerican Meteorological Society

Published: Apr 17, 1997

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