Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

Paim, Ana Aline Mendes; de Andrade, Morgana Carneiro; Steffens, Fernanda

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0041

Given the COVID-19 Pandemic outbreak and the role of medical textiles for protection, this study aims to identify the leading research foci on using textile materials for personal protection in pandemic situations.Design/methodology/approachA systematic review and systemic analysis of the literature on the subject were performed using the process knowledge development – constructivist (ProKnow-C) methodology.FindingsA bibliographic portfolio with 16 relevant studies was obtained. This portfolio represents the main focus of this research field, including the main filtration mechanisms, ways of disinfecting N95 respirators and proposed methods to evaluate the filtration efficiency of different materials with potential for mask development.Originality/valueTo the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first time the ProKnow-C methodology was used in the textile field. Thus, future studies can benefit from using the Proknow-C for selecting and analyzing relevant textile studies following a systematic approach.

Behera, Prapti; Aravind, Sanjukta; Seetharaman, Balaji

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0053

Bales of cotton run through the gins and textile mill instruments, stick to them and make it cumbersome for the ginning mill workers. This is so because more time and money have to be invested in cleaning these instruments. The stickiness of cotton causes health hazards to the workers, decreases the yarn quality and economic loss to the textile industry. The effect of cotton stickiness on textile ginning, various methods for cotton stickiness detection and the steps for reduction are discussed.Design/methodology/approachThe different methods that are available for detecting and measuring cotton stickiness are described. The sugars that cause stickiness are either of plant origin (physiological sugars) or from the feeding insects (entomological origin). The methods for stickiness detection and reduction are discussed under physical, chemical and biological categories.FindingsThis review suggests possible ways to mitigate cotton stickiness.Originality/valueOne of the major issues of the textile industry is honeydew-contaminated cotton stickiness. However, there are few papers on detection methods for analyzing honeydew cotton stickiness along with the approaches to reduce stickiness. This paper summarizes different methods along with a study for detection as well as reduction of cotton stickiness.

Phan, Hung Ngoc; Bui, Huong Mai; Vu, Nguyen Khanh

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0071

Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as academically applying textile processing. This study aims to create a sustainable fabric-like membrane made of BC/activated carbon (AC) for applications in filtration using textile padding method, to protect people from respiratory pandemics.Design/methodology/approachFabric-like BC is first mechanically dehydrated then AC is loaded via a textile padding step. The finishing efficacy, properties of fabric-like BC/AC and NaOH pretreatment are analyzed and characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), field emission scanning electron microscope (FE SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), CIELab color space, color strength (K/S), nitrogen adsorption-desorption isotherm including Brunauer–Emmett–Teller (BET) specific surface area and Barrett–Joyner–Halenda (BJH) pore size and volume.FindingsThis research results in a fabric-like BC/AC with pore diameters of 3.407 ± 0.310 nm, specific surface area of 115.28 m2/g and an efficient scalable padding process, which uses 8 times less amount of chemical and nearly 30 times shorter treating duration than conventional methods.Practical implicationsOur globe is now consuming an alarming amount of non-degradable disposable masks resulting in massive trash buildup as a future environmental problem. Besides, current disposable masks requiring a significant upfront technological investment have posed challenges in human protection from respiratory diseases, especially for countries with limited conditions. By combining a sustainable material (BC) with popular padding method of textile industry, the fabric-like BC/AC will offer sustainable and practical values for both humankind and nature.Originality/valueThis research has offered an effective padding process to functionalize BC, and a unique fabric-like BC/AC membrane for filtration applications.

Mondal, Priyabrata; Jana, Prabir

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0092

Automation and the new buzzword, “Industry 4.0”, have dominated the media headlines in recent months. In this scenario, apparel manufacturers should not only install automatic machines but also standardise them based on specific industry requirements, and precise measures are required for daily target demands.Design/methodology/approachThis study demonstrates the application of Predetermined Motion and Time System (PMTS) tools in various automatic and semiautomatic machines to obtain higher productivity and the highest utilisation percentage of operator and automats between the 1:1 and 1:2 man vs machine configuration models. In this study, timeSSD® was used to calculate the micro motions of humans. In addition, a video annotation and modelling software Tracker was used to calculate high-speed machine movements with loading frames of 30 FPS.FindingsAfter the implementation of PMTS tools, it was found that for a 1:1 man vs machine configuration, the operator utilisation is 75% per shift and the operator idle time is 50% per cycle time, and the operator is sitting idle for 2 h per 8 h of shift. So, there is scope to improve the utilisation and idle time of operator.Research limitations/implicationsWith the PMTS software, an industrial engineer professional with knowledge of the micromotion economy can only calculate micromotion.Originality/valueExploring the first time in the world to establish standard allowed minute (SAM) of a partly automated single-unit sewing machine with partial human intervention and a semiautomatic machine. Theoretical underpinnings indicate that manufacturers use the experience to determine the SAM of any operation over time, necessitating this work to calculate standard minutes automatically.

Martina, Tina; Wardiningsih, Wiah; Rianti, Ajeng; Rudy, Ryan; Pradana, Samuel Martin

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0101

The purpose of this study was to characterize the fiber from Curcuma longa (turmeric) stems. The fiber’s properties were used to assess its potential for textile yarn production.Design/methodology/approachThe natural fiber used in this investigation was extracted from agricultural waste through a cold water-retting process.FindingsThe Curcuma longa fiber had a crystallinity of 50%. Cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin were detected in the fibers’ Fourier transform infrared spectra. A Curcuma longa fiber bundle contains several constituent fibers. The fibers exhibited an irregular cross-section, with a variable oval shape for the lumen. The fibers of Curcuma longa averaged 30.22 cm in length. The fineness of the fibers was 6.58 Tex. In this study, Curcuma longa fibers had an 11.30% moisture regain. The tensile strength of the fibers was 19.18 g/Tex. Curcuma longa fibers showed a break elongation of 9.79%. The fiber coefficient of friction was 0.3.Originality/valueCurcuma longa has characteristics that make it appropriate for industrial uses like spinning. Thus, it is possible to use Curcuma longa fiber as a raw material for textiles.

Enawgaw, Haymanot

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-06-2022-0068

The purpose of this paper is to give compiled information on previously applied cotton fabric surface modifications. The paper covered most of the modifications done on cotton fabric to improve its properties or to add some functional properties. The paper presented mostly studied research works that brought a significant surface improvement on cotton fabric.Design/methodology/approachDifferent previous works on surface modifications of cotton fabrics such as pilling, wrinkle and microbial resistance, hydrophobicity, cationization, flame retardancy and UV-protection characteristics were studied and their methods of modification including the main findings are well reported in this paper.FindingsSeveral modification treatments on surface modification of cotton fabrics indicated an improvement in the desired properties in which the modification is needed. For instance, the pilling tendency, wrinkling, microbial degradation and UV degradation drawbacks of cotton fabric can be overcome through different modification techniques.Originality/valueTo the best of the author’s knowledge, there are no compressive documents that covered all the portions presented in this review. The author tried to cover the surface modifications done to improve the main properties of cotton fabric.

Patel, Nilam C.; Desai, Dipen H.; Patel, Paresh N.

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0093

This paper aims to develop a novel protocol for the synthesis of disperse dyes derived by a triple cascade reaction with lawsone in presence of Zn acetate as a catalyst. The developed novel scaffolds have efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers.Design/methodology/approachThis report demonstrates an effectual triple cascade protocol for the synthesis of novel disperse dyes derived from various polynuclear carbaldehyde, urea and lawsone. The Zn acetate was found to be an effective catalyst for this reaction. Their dyeing performance has been studied on nylon and polyester fabrics. The wash fastness, sublimation fastness, color assessment, determination of percentage exhaustion and fixation properties were applied to both the dyed fabrics.FindingsThe obtained results indicate that the Zn acetate is an efficient catalyst for the developed triple cascade protocol. The prepared novel disperse dye greatly impacted their dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers. They have shown brilliant shades, higher affinity, adsorption capacity, superior tinctorial strength than the lawsone. The percentage exhaustion value, fixation value, color strength (K/s) value, washing and sublimation fastness properties have been found very well in all dyed nylon samples compared to polyester samples. These results discloses that these disperses dyes are very useful to the growing importance of nylon and polyester fibers.Research limitations/implicationsThe present protocol synthesizes the racemic mixture of the prepared molecules.Practical implicationsDeveloped protocol can be used for various other triple cascade processes. Also these molecules can be used for dyeing of other fabrics.Social implicationsWith the help of commercialization of prepared molecules, it may provide the better alternative of the current disperse dyes. This may affect the various segments of society.Originality/valueThis report represents a novel protocol for the synthesis of modified novel disperse dyes with an efficient dyeing properties on nylon and polyester fibers.

Kumarapeli, Udeni; Ratnayake, Vijitha; Jayawardana, Sanath Siroshana

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-10-2022-0122

Technological innovation is one of the strongest driving forces in the survival and growth of any organization, including textile and apparel industries. However, technological innovation inherits a wide array of risks due to the uncertainty involved in it. In-depth research reveals the existence of a significant relationship between innovation failures and the approach used to innovate, that is, the organization’s innovator type. However, quantitative evidence supporting this concern is still lacking. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to bridge the existing gap in the literature on effective management of technological innovation risk factors and the innovator type of textile and apparel industries.Design/methodology/approachThe risk factors related to technological innovations are identified under different innovator types. Analytic network process (ANP) has been used to evaluate the contribution of risk factors according to the innovator type of the organization. Data was gathered through the literature review and structured and semi structured interviews with textile and apparel industry experts. The contribution of risk factors was determined through priorities, derived according to the ANP using Super Decision software.FindingsContribution of risk factors takes different values according to innovator type. This provides comprehensive knowledge on developing a risk management strategy according to the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, this provides insight into the fact that a generalized risk management strategy will not be effective and sensible for all innovator types.Originality/valueThe findings provide a thorough understanding of developing a customized risk management strategy by determining the “most to least” criticality of risks based on the innovator type of the organization. Furthermore, findings can be used to adopt the most appropriate innovator type based on the organization’s key competencies. Moreover, this guides the organization in making the best use of internal resources during risk management. Furthermore, this provides insight into the risk factors that must be addressed prior to embarking on new innovative approaches.

Paras, Manoj Kumar; Pal, Rudrajeet; Ekwall, Daniel

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0048

The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of upcycling in the clothing industry. This study is an attempt to standardise upcycling/redesign process.Design/methodology/approachAn exploratory approach was adopted to perform the research. This study draws on the multiple organisations involved in the upcycling of clothes. The organisations chosen for this study are located in Sweden and Romania using the snowball technique. Semi-structured interviews, direct and participatory observation approaches were used to collect information. The collected data are systematically analysed using NVivo 10 software.FindingsThis paper provides empirical insights into the diverse practices of upcycling. Process, product and demand-based were three fundamental approaches to performing the redesigning process. The fabric quality and durability, variations in size, colour and pattern, skills and efforts required in the extraction of parts and environmental consciousness and awareness were the main factors influencing upcycling process.Research limitations/implicationsThe use of the European case may miss best practices from the other region. This study may help scholars to understand the method of upcycling. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process. This research is beneficial for society, as this leads to the reduction of textile wastage.Originality/valueThis paper conceptualises some of the best practices of clothes redesign. This provides a good insight for the organisation for the improvement in the redesign business.

Tufan Tolmaç, Nazmiye; İşmal, Özlenen Erdem

2024 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

doi: 10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0058

This study aims to produce textile-like surfaces using fused deposition modelling (FDM) 3D printers and create a garment collection.Design/methodology/approachExperiments were conducted using different types of materials in FDM 3D printers until the sufficient flexibility was achieved to create textile-like structures. During the research, properties of polylactic acid (PLA), acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) were observed. Geometrical patterns were printed and each of them gave a different result depending on the pattern. Based on the information obtained from the experiments, a garment collection with four total looks was designed inspired by Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons”.FindingsAmong the materials used, TPU, a flexible filament, yielded the best results. Because of the rigid properties of PLA and ABS, chain-like structures were printed to create relatively flexible surfaces, but the results were still not successful enough to create a clothing material. Therefore, TPU was preferred for the garment material selection.Originality/valueIn this study, combinations of 3D printed flexible structures and different types of fabrics were used to create a garment collection. It was concluded that, with the right material selection, 3D printing can be used as an alternative method to create a new aesthetic language in fashion design.