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Imrith, Manoj Kumar; Rosunee, Satyadev; Unmar, Roshan
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-02-2022-0024
The thermophysiological comfort of fabrics is prerequisite as customers covet adequate moisture, heat management-supported and UV protective clothing that measure up to their levels of activities and environmental conditions. Hitherto, scant tasks have been reported with the purpose of engineering both comfort and UV protection simultaneously. From that vantage point, the objective of this work is to develop a model for optimum UPF, air permeability, water-vapour resistance, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and areal density of knitted fabrics.Design/methodology/approachWeft knitted fabrics of various compositions were investigated. UPF was tested using the Labsphere UV transmittance analyser. The FX 3300 (Textest instruments) air permeability tester was used to test air permeability. Thermal comfort and water-vapour resistance were evaluated using the Alambeta and Permetest instruments, respectively. Based on image processing, the porosity was measured. Fabrics thickness and areal density were measured according to standard methods. Furthermore, parametric and non-parametric statistical test methods were applied to the data for analysis.FindingsLinear regression was substantiated by Kolmogorov-Smirnov test. Then multiple linear regression of porosity and thickness together on UPF and comfort parameters were visually depicted by virtue of 3D linear plots. Residual analysis with quantile-quantile and probability plots, advocated the tests using the Shapiro-Wilk test. The result was validated by comparison with experimental data tested. The samples gave satisfactory relative errors and were supported by the z-test method. All tests indicated failure to reject the null hypothesis.Originality/valueThe predictive models were embedded into an interactive computer program. Fabric thickness and porosity are the inputs needed to run the program. It will predict the optimum UPF, areal density and thermophysiological comfort parameters. In a nutshell, knitters may use the program to determine optimum structural parameters for diverse permutations of UPF and thermophysiological comfort parameters; scilicet high UV protection together with low thermal insulation combined with low water-vapour resistance and high air permeability.
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0044
In recent years, rough set theory has evolved as one of the most promising classification techniques. One of the cardinal uses of rough set theory is its application for rule generation. The purpose of this paper is to propose a real-time fabric inspection technique. This work deals with the multi-class classification of fabric defects using rough set theory.Design/methodology/approachThis technique focuses on the classification of fabric defects using the effective decision rules envisaged by rough set theory. In the proposed work, the six features of 50 images have been used for multiclass classification of fabric defects.FindingsIn this work, 40 images were used for generation of decision rules and 10 unseen images were used for validation out of which nine images are accurately predicted by the proposed technique.Originality/valueThe proposed method accurately identified 9 out of 10 testing defects. The obtained decision rules provide an insight about the classification method which ensures that the prediction accuracy can be improved further by framing more robust decision rules with the help of a large training data set. Thus, with the support of modern computational systems this method is potent in getting recognition from the textile industry as a real-time classification technique.
Imrith, Manoj Kumar; Rosunee, Satyadev; Unmar, Roshan
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-02-2022-0016
Lightweight, open construction cotton knitted fabrics generally do not impart good protection from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). As lightweight 100% cotton single jersey is highly cherished for summerwear, it is sine qua non to understand the structural parameters that effectively strike a good balance between UV protection and thermophysiological comfort of the wearer. Relatively heavy fabrics protect from UVR, but comfort is compromised because of waning porosity, increase in thickness and thermal insulation. The purpose of this paper is to engineer knits that will bestow maximum UV protection while preserving the thermophysiological comfort of the wearer.Design/methodology/approachIn total, 27 cotton single jersey fabrics with different areal densities and yarn counts were selected. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) was calculated based on the work of Imrith (2022). To précis, the authors constructed a UV box to measure the UPF of fabrics, denoted as UPFB. UPFB data were correlated with AATCC 183-2004 and yielded high correlation, R2 0.977. It was concluded that UPF 50 corresponds to UPFB 94.3. Thermal comfort properties were measured on the Alambeta and water-vapour resistance on the Permetest. Linear programming (LP) was used to optimize UPFB and comfort. Linear optimization focused on maximizing UPFB while keeping the thermophysiological comfort and areal density as constraints.FindingsThe resulting linear geometrical and sensitivity analyses generated multiple technically feasible solutions of fabrics thickness and porosity that gave valid UPFB, thermal absorptivity and water-vapour and thermal resistance. Subsequently, an interactive optimization software was developed to predict the stitch length, tightness factor and yarn count for optimum UPFB from a given areal density. The predicted values were then used to knit seven 100% cotton single jersey fabrics and were tested for UV protection. All seven fabrics gave UPFB above the threshold, that is, higher than 94.3. The mathematical model demonstrated good correlations with the optimized parameters and experimental values.Originality/valueThe optimization software predicted the optimum UPFB reasonably well, starting from the fabric structural and constructional parameters. In addition, the models were developed as interactive user interfaces, which can be used by knitted fabric developers to engineer cotton knits for maximizing UV protection without compromising thermophysiological comfort. It has been demonstrated that LP is an efficient tool for the optimization and prediction of targeted knitted fabrics parameters.
Sumo, Peter Davis; Ji, Xiaofen; Cai, Liling
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0082
Studies on textile upcycling in Africa are rare, particularly in Liberia, where extensive upcycling designs are appreciated throughout the country. This study aims to contribute to the upcycling literature from the perspective of Liberia’s fashion upcyclers by assessing their coping strategies and understanding the challenges confronting fashion upcycling in Monrovia’s four largest markets.Design/methodology/approachA fuzzy analytical hierarchy process and data envelopment analysis (DEA) models were used to assess labor input, delivery and flexibility, technological and innovation capability, financial capability, pricing of finished products, customer service and quality outputs of upcycled fashions. The fuzzy inference system model assessed upcyclers’ loaning eligibility.FindingsThe results highlight that Liberia’s fashion upcycling is expanding with varying innovative designs. The quality of upcycled fashions was deemed most important in the proposed AHP model. However, many upcycling businesses lack sufficient capital to make long-term investments. With the necessary investment, the innovation of these upcyclers could be a new line of fashion brands with great potential. In addition, using a fair judgment in assessing the little loaning funds available is paramount to enhancing their growth.Research limitations/implicationsOnly 34 decision-making units were assessed. Future research could expand this scope using other models with more practical loaning strategies.Originality/valueThis study presents a wealth of managerial and policy implications. The proposed hybrid model is adequate for developing managerial decisions for fashion upcyclers. The proposed framework can manage ambiguity, inaccuracy and the complexity of making decisions based on numerous criteria, making it applicable in unearthing robust strategies for enhancing the fashion upcycling sectors and other industries in developing countries. In addition, the proposed fuzzy Mamdani system could also be extended to other sectors, such as agriculture, for a more transparent allocation of resources.
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0045
The purpose of the study is to fill a gap in the literature on mathematical production planning (joint balancing and sequencing) in the fashion industry. It considers in particular situations of mass customization, made-to-measure or small lot sizes.Design/methodology/approachThe paper develops a mathematical model based on product options and attributes instead of fixed variants. It proposes an easy-to-use genetic algorithm to solve the resulting optimization problem. Functionality and performance of the algorithm are illustrated via a computational study.FindingsAn easy-to-implement, yet efficient algorithm to solve the multi-objective implementation of a problem structure that becomes increasingly relevant in the fashion industry is proposed. Implementation of the algorithm revealed that the algorithm is ideally suited to generate significant savings and that these savings are impervious to problem and thus company size.Practical implicationsThe solutions from the algorithm (Pareto-efficient frontier) offer decision-makers more flexibility in selecting those solutions they deem most fitting for their situation. The computational study illustrates the significant monetary savings possible by implementing the proposed algorithm to practical situations.Originality/valueIn contrast to existing papers, for the first time, to the best of the author’s knowledge, the focus of the joint balancing and sequencing approach has been applied in the fashion instead of the automotive industry. The applicability of the approach to specific fields of the fashion industry is discussed. An option and attributes-based model, rarely used in general assembly line sequencing per se, is used for more flexibility in representing a diverse set of model types.
Abd El-Hamied EL-Tantawi, Ahmed Ramadan
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-05-2022-0049
This study aims to show that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the twill angle line and its direction (twill S or Z). The quantity of the skewness is related to the float length and the twill angle in reverse, with the warp tension when changed from cotton to lycra filling yarns.Design/methodology/approachThe experimental analytical method.FindingsThe most significant goals presented from this investigation are cost savings, time of production and metaphorically; new demands on denim fabric patterns presented.Originality/valueMoving away from just chasing cheap, more innovative and progressive for manufacturing and end users search for denim, this paper served to shift the market share map for denim manufacturers, which is looks on nearly the most common problem facing the denim industry; skewness.
Leão, José; de Sousa Pereira, Leydiana; Cavalcanti, Maria Luiza Xavier De Holanda
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-08-2022-0102
Textile manufacturers worldwide are reformulating their networks, often outsourcing them to maintain a competitive advantage and increase market share. From this perspective, the purpose of this study is support the partnership selection process to develop a sustainable chain that effectively meets customer needs. Brazil has the largest textile and apparel chain in the West and is distinguished by its completeness, from fiber production, spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing and sewing to fashion shows. However, a firm’s relationship, especially in the production stage, is based on informal contracts, which result in a negative operational impact.Design/methodology/approachA methodological framework was developed based on a stable matching process to determine the optimal supplier network structure. This study presents a model application for the denim apparel chain in northeast Brazil.FindingsIn these environments, providing choices and recommending suppliers can be beneficial for effectively attending to demand requests, reducing production costs and improving quality through collaboration with sense relationships in a network. Thus, this study presents a better match from the negotiators’ perspective.Originality/valueThe findings of this research are of primary interest for guiding collaborative network composition in the textile and apparel chain. In particular, apparel domain companies can improve their effectiveness in decision-making by measuring the characteristics and potential of all companies involved in networks.
Dey, Bijoy Kumar; Paul, Ujjwal Kanti; Das, Gurudas
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-09-2022-0105
Although handloom is a significant source of livelihood for millions of people in India, it performs poorly compared to other sectors of the economy, which may be the root of technical inefficiency. Until now, to measure technical efficiency, no studies have been carried out; therefore, the purpose of this study is to estimate the technical efficiency in the handloom micro-enterprises in India.Design/methodology/approachThis study includes 427 handloom micro-entrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. Using bootstrap truncated regression, the data envelopment analysis (DEA) was used to calculate the technical efficiency and identify the factors responsible for inefficiency.FindingsThe findings of this study reveal that handloom enterprises are 75% pure technically efficient, suggesting room for input reduction. The bootstrap truncated regression results show that education, prior experience, modern technology, ICT, bank loan, training, gender and location significantly influence the technical efficiency of handloom enterprises.Research limitations/implicationsDespite recent advances in the DEA method, this study used a traditional form of DEA. This study used only one output and a limited set of inputs. Better results could have been obtained by expanding the number of inputs and output. Finally, the data for this study has been obtained from a very narrow geographic area. The production practices of the handloom enterprises in other parts of the region and other states might vary considerably.Practical implicationsTechnical efficiency measurement has management implications for businesses because it allows entrepreneurs to determine how much less input is required to produce the same output. A meticulous analysis can pinpoint the causes of inefficiency.Originality/valueThis paper aims to make two significant contributions to the extant literature. First, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, no published document has analyzed the technical efficiency of handloom micro-enterprises anywhere in the world. The authors fill this void by systematically analyzing the technical efficiency of the handloom industry in Assam.
Dey, Bijoy Kumar; Paul, Ujjwal Kanti
2023 Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
doi: 10.1108/rjta-07-2022-0085
This study aims to extend the discussion on firm profitability to include handloom enterprises in India.Design/methodology/approachThis study uses a random sample of 427 handloom microentrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. The seemingly unrelated regression model is used to determine the profitability drivers in India’s handloom enterprises.FindingsThe empirical results revealed that human, financial and social capital, along with their control variables such as information and communication technology, firm size and sales distribution, are the main drivers of profitability of Indian handloom enterprises.Originality/valueTo the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is the first to offer an in-depth insight into what makes profitability in the handloom enterprises in India, the world’s second-largest reservoir of the handloom industry.