International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

Idumah, Christopher Igwe; Odera, Raphael Stone; Ezeani, Emmanuel Obumneme

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-06-2023-0087

Nanotechnology (NT) advancements in personal protective textiles (PPT) or personal protective equipment (PPE) have alleviated spread and transmission of this highly contagious viral disease, and enabled enhancement of PPE, thereby fortifying antiviral behavior.Design/methodology/approachReview of a series of state of the art research papers on the subject matter.FindingsThis paper expounds on novel nanotechnological advancements in polymeric textile composites, emerging applications and fight against COVID-19 pandemic.Research limitations/implicationsAs a panacea to “public droplet prevention,” textiles have proven to be potentially effective as environmental droplet barriers (EDBs).Practical implicationsPPT in form of healthcare materials including surgical face masks (SFMs), gloves, goggles, respirators, gowns, uniforms, scrub-suits and other apparels play critical role in hindering the spreading of COVID-19 and other “oral-respiratory droplet contamination” both within and outside hospitals.Social implicationsWhen used as double-layers, textiles display effectiveness as SFMs or surgical-fabrics, which reduces droplet transmission to <10 cm, within circumference of ∼0.3%.Originality/valueNT advancements in textiles through nanoparticles, and sensor integration within textile materials have enhanced versatile sensory capabilities, robotics, flame retardancy, self-cleaning, electrical conductivity, flexibility and comfort, thereby availing it for health, medical, sporting, advanced engineering, pharmaceuticals, aerospace, military, automobile, food and agricultural applications, and more. Therefore, this paper expounds on recently emerging trends in nanotechnological influence in textiles for engineering and fight against COVID-19 pandemic.

Zhu, Yanxi; Shen, Jinzhu; Wang, Jianping; Zhang, Fan; Yao, Xiaofeng

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-01-2024-0001

To reduce the difficulty of the sewing process and promote the automation process of fabric sewing, a soft finger-assisted feeding method is proposed to investigate the effect of sewing process parameters on the quality of automatic sewing.Design/methodology/approachTaking cotton woven fabrics as an example, the causes of sewing deviation are firstly investigated from three aspects: fabric properties, sewing speed and sewing edge position. By simulating the sewing action of human hands, the method of reducing sewing deviation by using soft fingers to press and feed the fabric is proposed. Then, four sewing process factors, namely, robot arm end pressure, sewing machine speed, sewing needle gauge and stitch density, were selected, and three levels were set for each factor to design orthogonal sewing experiments. The sewing deviation of 1# sample under different sewing processes was measured, and the optimal parameter matching for automatic sewing of this specimen was derived.FindingsThe findings demonstrate that, while sewing cloth automatically, the sewing deviation is significantly influenced by the robotic arm's end pressure, sewing speed, and stitch density, whereas the sewing deviation is not significantly impacted by the needle number.Originality/valueThe findings offer fundamental information for the development of an automated sewing procedure using soft fingers, which has theoretical and real-world application value to speed up the intelligent modernization and transformation of the apparel industry.

Wang, Wanwan; Zhao, Mengmeng

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-11-2023-0171

The purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of clothing fabrics, sizes and air ventilation rate on the volume and thickness of the air gap under the air ventilation garments (AVGs).Design/methodology/approachThe geometric models of the human body and clothing were obtained by using a 3D body scanner. Then the distribution of the volume and thickness of the air gap for four clothing fabrics and three air ventilation rates (0L/S, 12L/S and 20L/S) were calculated by Geomagic software. Finally, a more suitable fabric was selected from the analysis to compare the distribution of the air gap entrapped for four clothing sizes (S, M, L and XL) and the three air ventilation rates.FindingsThe results show that the influence of air ventilation rate on the air gap volume and thickness is more obvious than that of the clothing fabrics and sizes. The higher is the air ventilation rate, the thicker is the air gap entrapped, and more evenly distributed is the air gap. It can be seen that the thickness of the air gap in the chest does not change significantly with the changes of the air ventilation rates, clothing fabrics and sizes, while the air gap in the waist is affected significantly.Originality/valueThis research provides a better understanding of the distribution of the air gap entrapped in ventilated garments, which can help in designing the optimal air gap dimensions and thus provide a basis and a reference for the design of the AVGs.

Ye, Fangyu; Dai, Jingyu; Duan, Ling

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-10-2021-0153

The device, amplifies and sub-regionally transmits the current generated by the body temperature thermoelectric generator through a smart body temperature sensor.Design/methodology/approachThe present study designs a wearable smart device regarding the relationship between temperature and emotion.FindingsExperimental results show that the device can accurately detect changes in human body temperature under hilarious, fearful, soothing and angry emotions, so as to achieve changes in clothing colors, namely blue, red, green and brown.Originality/valueDifferent areas of clothing produce controllable and intelligent color, so that adult emotions can be understood through changes in clothing colors, which is conducive to judging their moods and promoting social interaction.

Yu, Zhen Yan; Cong, Shan

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-01-2024-0028

The few previous researches on the impact of calf compression garments (CG) on running performance while assessing physiological and perceptual factors. Therefore, this study investigated how the clothing pressure of two types of Calf CG, CG1 and CG2, affects muscle fatigue and activation during running.Design/methodology/approachFive healthy amateur runners(three female and two male)were recruited for a 30-min running trial. They wear a Calf CG on their right leg (CG group), but not on their left leg(CON group). After obtaining the clothing pressure of Calf CG on the gastrocnemius lateral head (GL), gastrocnemius medial head (GM) and tibialis anterior(TA) of the right leg, surface electromyography (sEMG)of four muscles of GL, GM, TA and rectus femoris (RF) of the left and right legs were measured during running, and heart rate, cardiopulmonary rate, and human RPE were also measured. Blood bleed oxygen before and after the running trial were measured. The root mean square (RMS) of the characteristic values was selected as an index for the analysis of sEMG signals, and the data were analyzed using statistical and computational methods.FindingsThe results showed that the indexes of heart rate, blood oxygen, and RPE were significantly increased, indicating that the subjects had reached the fatigue level. The comparison of mean clothing pressure at GL, GM and TA locations reveals that the TA location consistently exhibits the highest pressure for both types of CG. When wearing CG1, the mean clothing pressure at the GL and GM test points is greater than that of CG2(CG1-GL = 0.2059 kPa > CG2-GL = 0.148 kPa; CG1-GM = 0.1633 kPa > CG2-GM = 0.127 kPa). This is attributed to the double-layered fabric on the sides of CG1, which precisely covers the GL and GM areas, thereby resulting in higher mean clothing pressure at these locations compared to CG2. Conversely, the mean clothing pressure at the TA location for CG1 is lower than that for CG2(CG1-TA = 0.3852 kPa < CG2-TA = 0.426 kPa). The pressure exerted by the CG1 on the lower limb test areas has both positive and negative effects, though neither are statistically significant. The pressure exerted by CG2 alleviates fatigue at the directly affected locations GL and GM, but exerts excessive pressure on TA, resulting in a negative effect. Additionally, CG2 pressure alleviates fatigue at the indirectly affected location RF on the same side. Based on the specific clothing pressure data, it is concluded that when the pressure at the GM location is 0.127 kPa, 30 min of running has a fatigue-relieving effect. However, the pressure should not be excessively high, at 0.1633 kPa it exhibits an insignificant adverse effect. At the TA location, a garment pressure mean between 0.3852 and 0.426 kPa does not alleviate fatigue after 30 min of running, and the negative effect becomes more pronounced as the pressure increases. The pressure exerted by the CG at GL, GM, TA and RF locations shows significant changes from the previous time period during the 15–18 min interval after running. Therefore, in the design of CG, attention should be paid to the changes in clothing pressure effects on muscles during this specific time period.Originality/valueThe few previous researches on the impact of calf compression garments (CG) on running performance while assessing physiological and perceptual factors. Therefore, this study investigated how the clothing pressure of two types of Calf CG, CG1 and CG2, affects muscle fatigue and activation during running.

Li, Tao; Ma, Jing; Wu, Jinying; Lin, Xiyan; Zou, Fengyuan

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-10-2023-0149

The human body has the same basic size data but has different surface morphology, resulting in the unfitness even under the same size specification. The purpose of this study was to solve the local fitness problems by representing and quantifying the human surface morphological difference.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, the 3D point cloud for 323 female students was scanned, and the cross-section layers of the “waist-to-thigh” zone were determined. Secondly, the space vector based on the space Euclidean distance was extracted to represent and quantify the surface morphological difference. And the Principal Component Analysis and K-means were adopted to subdivide the target zone. Thirdly, the pattern based on the subdivision results and surface flattening was generated. Additionally, the fitness was evaluated by the subjective and objective assessments, separately.FindingsThe space vector could represent and quantify the shape morphology of the “waist-to-thigh” zone. It had successfully achieved the human body subdivision and corresponding pattern generation for the “waist-to-thigh” zone. And the pattern based on the shape subdivision and surface flattening of the space vector could effectively improve the wearing fitness. Particularly in the waist and crotch area of trousers, the obvious wrinkles had been solved because the space vector is more in line with the shape morphology characteristics.Originality/valueThe proposed method could represent and quantify the difference in human surface morphology in a 3D manner. It solved the unfitness problem caused by the same body size but different shape surface morphology. And it will contribute to the fitness improvement of the trousers.

Benltoufa, Sofien; Algamdy, Hind; Ghith, Adel; Fayala, Faten; Hes, Lubos

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-01-2024-0012

The paper aims to investigate the dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance. The water vapour diffusion kinetics depends on the fibre’s material. So, water vapour resistance measurement times till the equilibrium steady state can vary in the case of natural fibres compared to synthetic fibres. Devices for determining water vapour resistance according to the ISO 11092 standard allow static values to be measured.Design/methodology/approachIn this study to investigate the dynamic of the water vapour resistance, a new parameter named “holding period” was introduced and defined as the time from sample placement on the measuring head until the measuring process begins. The holding period was varied as 0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 180, 240 and 300 s. Wool and cotton knitted fabrics were tested as natural fibres and compared to 100% polyester and 90% polyester/10% elastane as synthetic fibres. Measurements were conducted under both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s. The experimental test data were statistically analysed based on ANOVA and four-in-one residual plots.FindingsStatistical analysis of experimental tests shows that the holding period affects water vapour resistance in both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s and on the measured values in the case of hydrophilic fibres.Research limitations/implicationsThe study of the dynamic relative water vapour permeability of natural and synthetic is an important area of interest for future research.Practical implicationsIt is recommended to hold the samples on the top of the head measurement before starting the test.Originality/valueFollowing the ISO 11092 standard, the static values of the water vapour resistance were measured without considering the dynamic behaviour of the water vapour diffusion through the textile fabrics. This paper fulfils an experimental dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance.

Zhao, Junjie; Jiang, Gaoming; Li, Bingxian

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-08-2023-0119

The purpose of this paper is to solve the diverse and complex problems of flat-knitting sports upper process design, improve the design ability of upper organization, and realize three-dimensional simulation function.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, the matrix is used to establish the corresponding pattern diagram and organizational diagram model, and the relationship between the two is established by color coding as a bridge to completed the transformation of the flat-knitted sports upper process design model. Secondly, the spatial coordinates of the loop type value points are obtained through the establishment of loop mesh model, the index of two-dimensional and three-dimensional models of uppers and the establishment of spatial transformation relationship. Finally, using Visual Studio as a development tool, use the C# language to implement this series of processes.FindingsDigitizing the fabric into a matrix model, combined with matrix transformation, can quickly realize the design of the flat-knitting process. Taking the knitting diagram of the upper process as the starting point, the loop geometry model corresponding to the element information is established, and the three-dimensional simulation effect of the flat-knitted upper based on the loop structure is realized under the premise of ensuring that it can be knitted.Originality/valueThis paper proposes a design and modeling method for flat-knitted uppers. Taking the upper design process and 3D simulation effect as an example, the feasibility of the method is verified, which improves the efficiency of the development of the flat-knitted upper product and lays the foundation for the high-end customization of the flat-knitted upper.

Kang, Yeonghoon; Jung, Gyungin; Kim, Sungmin

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-12-2023-0179

This study aims to develop a novel design method to make personalized masks for the effective prevention of pandemic respiratory infectious disease.Design/methodology/approachThe changes in facial shape during speaking were analyzed using a three-dimensional (3D) scanning technique. In total, 13 anthropometric items were measured, and mask patterns were generated using a parametric pattern design method. Three sizing methods were proposed to reflect not only static but also dynamic body dimensions on the mask patterns.FindingsA significant increase or decrease was observed in 10 out of 13 measurement items. Based on this, four items were selected to be used in the mask pattern design. The nose and cheek areas of a mask were fixed to protect the respiratory tract against viruses. The lower jaw area was deformed to improve the fit.Social implicationsThis study is expected to provide fundamental data to understand the changes in facial shape during movement. In addition, it is expected that the development of individualized personal protective equipment with movement adaptability will facilitate an effective response to various pandemic respiratory diseases.Originality/valueIn order to develop a personal protective equipment (PPE) that has a good fit and can protect against pandemic respiratory infectious diseases, morphological analysis was attempted using 3D facial data. It would be possible to design various products and equipment to be worn on the face by using the method proposed in this study.

Kang, Minjoo; Kim, Sungmin

2024 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/ijcst-03-2024-0080

This study aims to create and deform 3D garment apparel in an immersive virtual reality using head-mounted display and controllers. For this, adequate design methods for immersive virtual environment were explored and developed in order to confirm the suitability of the developed methods.Design/methodology/approachAn immersive virtual environment was prepared using Unreal Engine (UE) version 5.1 and Meta Human Lexi to create template garment that corresponds to the sizes of a human model. Dual quaternion skinning was adopted for pose deformation. For size deformation, patches were constructed with the measurement lines defined on Lexi. This patch-based approach was adopted not only for automatic generation but also for flat pattern projection of the template garment.FindingsThe research found that garment-making process can be brought into immersive virtual reality. Free use of one's hands and body made apparel deformation in an immersive environment conform with the real garment draping process.Originality/valueSimulating garment making in an immersive virtual reality has not previously been explored in detail. This research discovered, implemented and tested methods that best suit the environment where head-mounted display and controllers are essential in detail.