International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

Daiva Juodsnukytė; Virginija Daukantienė; Matas Gutauskas

2008 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/09556220810843494

Purpose – This paper aims to develop the methodology for the imitation of exploitation conditions of textile products as well as to determine the exploitation peculiarities of high‐performance fabrics for outdoor clothing producible in Lithuania. Design/methodology/approach – Static‐ and dynamic‐cyclic loading was applied for the imitation of exploitation conditions as well as for the investigation of the changes in specimen geometrical parameters. Findings – The differences in the parameters of textile material stability determined under dry and wet cyclic specimen deformation were determined. The investigation results presented show that the parameters of air permeability can be used for the determination of changes in textile product shapes due to their cyclic washing as well as to the other kinds of wet technological treatment, especially in these cases when the small areas of product material are deformed. Practical implications – The problems concerned with the methodology for the evaluation of exploitation stability of high‐performance fabrics (woven and knitted) for outdoor clothing are analyzed in this research. Originality/value – In most cases, the exploitation behaviour of textile materials is investigated under uniaxial or static biaxial deformation. For better imitation of real exploitation conditions of textiles the new testing methodology based on two testing methods was established (original device for punch deformation working in creep mode as well as using wet and dry specimens; device ARRV for cyclic fatigue).

Hein Daanen; Sung‐Ae Hong

2008 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/09556220810843502

Purpose – New techniques are required to link 3D whole body scans to manufacturing techniques to allow for the mass‐customization of clothes. This study aims to compare two methods of producing skirts based on 3D whole body scans. Design/methodology/approach – Three females participated in the study. They were scanned with an accurate 3D whole body scanner. A set of relevant 1D measures was automatically derived from the 3D scan. The measures were incorporated in a skirt pattern and the skirt was made from jeans material. The second method was based on triangulation of the scanned waist‐to‐hip part. The points in the 3D scan were first converted to triangles and these triangles were thereafter merged with neighboring triangles of similar orientation until about 40 triangles remained. These triangles were sewn together to form a “patchwork”‐skirt. All females performed fit tests afterwards. Findings – The fit of the 3D‐generated patchwork skirt was much better than the fit of the skirt generated by the 1D scan‐derived measures. In the latter case, two of the three skirts were too wide because the scan‐derived hip circumference exceeded the manually derived values. For the 3D generated skirt, it was necessary to enlarge the triangles with a factor of 1.025 to achieve optimal fit. Originality/value – As far as is known, this is the first study that reports a direct conversion of a 3D scan to clothing without interference of clothing patterns. The study shows that it is possible to generate a fitting patchwork skirt based on 3D scans; the intermediate step of using 1D measures derived from 3D scans is shown to be error‐prone.

Jing‐Jing Fang; Yu Ding

2008 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/09556220810843511

Purpose – This paper aims to present a flattening method for developing 2D basic patterns from 3D designed garments. The method incorporates the techniques of professional pattern development for the purpose of pattern‐making automation. The aims of the flattening method are to improve the dressing suitability and to produce pleasing figures by reversing design procedures. Design/methodology/approach – A flattening method is presented in this paper for developing 3D undevelopable NURBS surfaces in 2D. The automatic operation embeds the expertise of pattern makers by reducing total area differences between the designed garments in 3D styles and the two‐dimensional patterns. Basic pattern‐making invokes the boundary constraints which apply mesh alignments techniques. Findings – The global area difference between the original 3D designs and the 2D‐developed pattern is controlled within 5 percent in order to reach the final outcomes of basic patterns, whose shapes are similar to the drawing patterns currently utilized in the industry. Research limitations/implications – This study currently handles simple designs, such as basal designs, and can only flatten garments in symmetric styles. The direct flattening method is developed by this study. In addition, this study is supplemented by expert‐based knowledge, and it establishes basic boundary conditions for various garment patterns to increase the feasibility of flattening automation. Originality/value – This study introduces the fundamental theories and methodologies used in the automatic making of basic patterns from 3D garment designs. It proposes a flattening method with pattern expertise embedded by real‐time approximations of the global area of the 3D undevelopable designs to the 2D patterns.

Jing‐Jing Fang; Yu Ding; Su‐Chin Huang

2008 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/09556220810843520

Purpose – Based on the knowledge of professional pattern makers, this paper aims to propose an expert‐based automation technique of darts generation by aligning and drawing close meshes in basic pattern in Part I. Single dart development, such as waist‐fitting dart, shoulder dart, armscye dart, side dart, and their select combination are also presented. Design/methodology/approach – In this paper, 3D garment surface is first approximated by a finite number of meshes. Patterns are developed by aligning and rotating of the flattened meshes under the constraint of overlay avoidance. The envelop areas between the developed patterns and the curved surface are dramatically reduced from 5 percent of basic pattern to below 3 percent after darts development. Findings – The development patterns are varied in their association with the subject's body figures and the designed garment. Darts in a different location can reduce the total area difference between the flattening undevelopable surface and the original curved surface. Research limitations/implications – At the present stage the pattern development method cannot guarantee the uniqueness of pattern outline. Moreover, the pattern maker's knowledge inputs in this paper can only apply to the subject whose waist girth is less than hip girth in circumference. Originality/value – The embedded pattern maker knowledge provides certain rules for pattern development from 3D design. Moreover, it is practical to be used and exported to modern 2D pattern software for further editing and revision. The same person is also used as a model after the patterns have been sewn into clothes.

Diana Germanova‐Krasteva; Hristo Petrov

2008 International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

doi: 10.1108/09556220810843539

Purpose – This paper aims to define the dominating factors having influence on the quality of the seam by sewing of fine fabrics and their optimum values. Design/methodology/approach – Ten factors defining a seam's quality are chosen on the base of literary research. There was a check for concurrence of specialists' opinions, as the Spearman's coefficient of concordance was determined. A designed experiment with variation of the first three of the arranged factors was made. Mathematical models for the tensile and the aesthetical properties of the seam were devised, and also optimization made. Findings – A classification of the properties, defining seam's quality, is made. A cause‐effect diagram of Ishikawa with aiming parameter – quality of the seam – has been developed. On the basis of a survey the factors that have a great deal of influence on it are presented. Mathematical models for seam's strength, elongation and smoothness are produced by changing the following factors: straining of the upper thread, size of the needle and load on the pressing foot are worked out. Received models are optimized. Research limitations/implications – The research was conducted using a sewing‐machine class 301. Received results and conclusions refer to seams made from base material – fabric from PES and sewing thread from 100 percent PE. Practical implications – Optimum values have been established for the straining of the upper thread, the size of the needle and the load on the pressing foot by sewing of fabric from synthetic silk with mass applicable machines, needles, and sewing threads. Originality/value – The research has been done in several directions: systemizing the seam's properties for evaluation of its quality and the factors defining it, inquiry into the significance of the different factors and implementation of a designed experiment. Consultations were made with a broad circle of specialists and these results are given in visual systems (schemes and graphs).