of milk has basically ruined it. But she is clear-eyed about the hype, whether it involves the romance of raw milk or the story of progress through pasteurization, inulin, and probiotics. She simply wants better milk, the kind we got before industry turned it into a chemical substance. âGoodâ stories, however, taste better with a spice of drama. Frederick Kaufman does this in his less informative but more entertaining chapter on the raw milk movement in The Short History of the Stomach. Mendelsonâs approach is to dismiss the raw-milk militants and simply asks the reader to taste. If only her writing were as tasty as the homemade butter she describes, her âsurpriseâ about milk would reach a larger audience. âE. Melanie DuPuis, University of California, Santa Cruz Savage Barbecue: Race, Culture, and the Invention of Americaâs First Food Andrew Warnes Athens: University of Georgia Press, 2008 xii+206 pp. Illustrations. $19.95 (cloth) GASTRONOMICA Andrew Warnes takes the words we use to describe barbecue very seriously indeed. In doing so, he uncovers a veritable Zen koan of barbecue: if a tree was felled somewhere in the Americas and slowly burned to smoke, meat resting on a wooden frame built over
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Savage Barbecue: Race, Culture, and the Invention of America's First Food
Engelhardt, Elizabeth
Follow Gastronomica
, Volume 9 (4)
University of California Press – Nov 1, 2009
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