f u n d a m e n t a l s | t.r. durham Salt, Smoke, and History GASTR O N O M I CA When Americans think of smoked ï¬sh and meats, all sorts of delicacies come to mind, from elegant smoked salmon with crème fraîche and caviar, to homier delights such as barbecued ribs or jaw-defying sandwiches of sliced brisket or pulled pork. This is a breathtaking span, the culinary equivalent of the progression from Bach to country rock. Somewhere in between the haute and the plebeian, between cuisine and chow, falls the craft of making ham, a tradition extending from the old world to the new. Smoked meats and ï¬sh have long been an important source of sustenance from one hunting season or salmon run to the next. But, as with many popular foods, what was once necessity is now an art form, enshrined in restaurant menus and in the display cases of prestige purveyors. One thing is certainâsmoking has a lengthy tradition. Once the pig was domesticated (sometime before 2000 b.c.), people soon ï¬gured out what to do with the ears and trotters and parts in between, and the art of charcuterie was
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Salt, Smoke, and History
Durham, T.R.
Follow Gastronomica
, Volume 1 (1)
University of California Press – Feb 1, 2001
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