cuisine | a l len s. w e i s s Reï¬ections on the Stuffed Cabbage Perhaps more than any other art form, cuisine obeys strict categorical imperatives (sometimes referred to by the term tradition, at other times by authenticity). The moment when such categories no longer function often results in a signiï¬cant gastronomic revelation. I experienced my initial instance of such culinary shock on my ï¬rst trip to London during the Christmas holidays of 1978. When ordering a typical b and b breakfast, I was offered the following choices: âCoffee or tea?â âCoffee.â âEggs over or scrambled?â âOver.â âOrange juice or bacon?â Orange juice or bacon!? It took me some time to realize that this question was motivated by pecuniary, not gastronomic, concerns. A similar surprise occurred many years later in France when the menu of a small restaurant in Laguiole (Aveyron) offered the possibility of a grilled steak accompanied by either aligot (a local specialty of potato purée, fresh Laguiole cheese, butter, cream, and garlic blended into a mixture of extraordinary elasticity) or stuffed cabbage. Aligot or stuffed cabbage!? Given my Polish and Hungarian origins, I had always considered stuffed cabbage to be not only a
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Reflections on the Stuffed Cabbage
weiss, allen s.
Follow Gastronomica
, Volume 7 (1)
University of California Press – Feb 1, 2007
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