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associations of savagery and race in barbecue. Alternatively, he could have investigated the rhizome leading from the colonial, wooden-frame barbacoa to today’s Mexican goator cow’s-head barbacoa cooked underground. His book would be stronger for either choice. Warnes asks a lot of his readers, but he rewards us for it. Savage Barbecue changes the scholarship, even if we quibble with some of his inferences; no longer can we say that barbecue is simple. Nor can we repeat favorite apocryphal pseudo-etymologies. Now we must ask what those tales say about their inventors and ourselves. Warnes has not given us the final or only word on barbecue. But he has convincingly proven that we cannot take barbecue’s words lightly or dismissively, however much our history, dictionaries, and languages encourage us to do so. —Elizabeth Engelhardt, The University of Texas, Austin Glazed America: A History of the Doughnut Paul R. Mullins Gainesville: University Press of Florida, 2008 200 pp. $24.95 (cloth) “If there’s anything better in the world than a warm doughnut, I don’t know what it is” (p.92). It’s hard to argue with that unnamed doughnut lover quoted in anthropologist Paul R. Mullins’s exploration of the history of the doughnut. But

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Glazed America: A History of the Doughnut

Lovegren, Sylvia
Gastronomica , Volume 9 (4)
University of California PressNov 1, 2009

More Info

  • Publisher University of California Press
  • Copyright © 2009 BY THE REGENTS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
  • ISSN 1529-3262
  • eISSN 1533-8622
  • D.O.I. 10.1525/gfc.2009.9.4.107
  • Publisher site Get PDF  

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