associations of savagery and race in barbecue. Alternatively, he could have investigated the rhizome leading from the colonial, wooden-frame barbacoa to todayâs Mexican goator cowâs-head barbacoa cooked underground. His book would be stronger for either choice. Warnes asks a lot of his readers, but he rewards us for it. Savage Barbecue changes the scholarship, even if we quibble with some of his inferences; no longer can we say that barbecue is simple. Nor can we repeat favorite apocryphal pseudo-etymologies. Now we must ask what those tales say about their inventors and ourselves. Warnes has not given us the ï¬nal or only word on barbecue. But he has convincingly proven that we cannot take barbecueâs words lightly or dismissively, however much our history, dictionaries, and languages encourage us to do so. âElizabeth Engelhardt, The University of Texas, Austin Glazed America: A History of the Doughnut Paul R. Mullins Gainesville: University Press of Florida, 2008 200 pp. $24.95 (cloth) âIf thereâs anything better in the world than a warm doughnut, I donât know what it isâ (p.92). Itâs hard to argue with that unnamed doughnut lover quoted in anthropologist Paul R. Mullinsâs exploration of the history of the doughnut. But
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