c h e f â s p a g e | ari nieminen Firebird New York, New York GASTR O N O M I CA Few people know that the best place to go for a ï¬ne Russian meal isnât Russia, but Helsinki, Finland. Iâm Finnish, and my knowledge of Russian cooking came straight from my grandmother, who worked as a chef in a wealthy household in the Ã
land Islands. She had been taught to cook by Russian chefs, who in turn had been trained by the French. At ï¬rst she wouldnât readily share her recipes with meâI had to earn them. But when I entered the Culinary Institute of America in 1983, she began to share her knowledge. I still have a dog-eared book that she gave me, titled simply Zakuska, the Russian word for that vast assortment of salty, pickled, and smoked appetizers served before the meal. The real treasure, though, was her handwritten notebook containing the recipes she had learned from the Russian chefs. One of the most important things my grandmother taught me was about the diversity of Russian cuisine. It has been influenced by foods and techniques from both East and West. You
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