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Betwixt and Between Youthful Vitality and Renewal in a twenty-Three-Hundred-Year-Old City Joshua abrams and Jennifer Parker-Starbuck EleventhâEuropeâTheatreâPrize,âNinthâEuropeâPrizeâNewâTheatricalâ Realities,âThessaloniki,âGreece,âAprilâ26â29,â2007. A sâ well-traveledâ theatreâ andâ perâ formanceâ scholars,â theâ absenceâ âinâ ourâ previousâ itinerariesâ ofâ Greeceâ seemedâ aâ ratherâ largeâ hole,â soâ theâ occasionâ ofâ theâ Eleventhâ Europeâ Theatreâ Prizeâsâ settingâ inâ Thessaloniki,â Greeceâseemedâratherâfortuitous.âNotâtheâ Greeceâ ofâ picture-postcardâ whitewash,â wanderingâcats,âandâintenseâblueâwaters,â Thessalonikiâisâaâworkingâcity,âtheâsecondâ largestâinâGreece,âyetâitâisâaâdeterminedlyâ youthfulâ city.â Itâ isâ theâ juxtapositionâ ofâ thisâyouthfulâandâindustrialâvitalityâwithâ Greekâhistoryâandâage,âwhichâseemsâsoâ poignantâ inâ thisâ cityâ thatâ shapedâ ourâ perspectivesâonâtheâfestival.âThessalonikiâ appearsâ aâ crossroads,â betweenâ ageâ andâ youth,âbetweenâEastâandâWest,âbetweenâ NorthâandâSouth. Homeâ toâ theâ 95,000-plusâ studentsâ ofâ AristotleâUniversity,âwithâaâportsideâsettingâonâtheâThermaikosâGulf,âandâknownâ forâitsâcoffee,âThessaloniki,âorâSalonica,â isâ oftenâ referredâ toâ asâ theâ âSeattleâ ofâ Greece.ââ Weâ wereâ toldâ thatâ theâ localsâ loveâtheirâcoffee,âandâthatâtheâworkingâ dayâwasâoftenâinterruptedâbyâprolongedâ coffeeâbreaks;âweâwereâsentâtoâtheâElectraâ 76â îªâ PAJâ88â(2008),âpp.â76â84.â Palaceâ Hotelâ onâ Aristoteliusâ Squareâ asâ aâ placeâ toâ sitâ atâ theâ rooftopâ restaurantâ overlookingâtheâgulfâtoâenjoyâaâfrappe,â theâ favoredâ coffeeâ selectionâbasicallyâ aâ rich,â shakenâ icedâ latte.â Indeed,â thisâ wasâ anâ idyllicâ setting,â andâ despiteâ theâ contemporarinessâ ofâ theâ fixturesâ andâ restaurantâ design,â itâ evokedâ aâ certainâ timelessness.âTrappedâbetweenâtheâlaidbackâattitudesâofâGreekâislandsâandâtheâ bustleâofâwhatâwantsâtoâbeâaâcontemporaryâcity,âThessalonikiâtelescopesâtwentythreeâcenturiesâintoâtheâpresentâmomentâ andâyetâseemsâslightlyâoutâofâtimeâinâtheâ earlyâtwenty-firstâcentury.âThisâsenseâofâ theâpastâcanâbeâfeltâespeciallyâinârelationâ toâtheâincreasinglyâglobalâsmokingâban,â whichâ onâ Julyâ 1,â 2007,â wasâ embracedâ evenâbyâtheâUKâsâjoiningâtheâparadeâofâ countriesâ toâ banâ smokingâ inâ enclosedâ spacesâyetâthereâinâThessaloniki,âeveryoneâ seemsâ toâ smoke.â Asâ weâ satâ inâ theâ ElectraâPalaceâwithâourâfrappes,âalmostâ allâ ofâ theâ otherâ tablesâ wereâ filledâ withâ groupsâ ofâ people,â
PAJ: A Journal of Performance and Art – MIT Press
Published: Jan 1, 2008
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