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There is substantial current interest in the use of remotely sensed images to study littoral processes. Of particular interest is using the interaction of the ocean waves with the bottom to infer the water depth in coastal areas. Testing the accuracy of processing and analysis methods requires a known set of bottom depths at many points in the images to compare with depths extracted. Such knowledge is not available for most near-shore areas. Consequently, we have developed a simulator which produces a time series of images showing sea surface elevation for waves moving over a specified piecewise linear bottom of moderate slope. It provides a good approximation to the real sea surface for a wide range of conditions. Hence it can produce controlled datasets for many purposes in shallow-water research. The program uses linear wave theory to model a statistical realization of a deep-water wave field, with a realistic frequency spectrum and directional spreading, and applies the appropriate modifications for shoaling. Several examples show that the program produces reasonable results, indicating it should be a useful analytical tool in a range of problems.

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Simulating remotely sensed images of shoaling waves

Lea, Suzanne M.
ACM SIGAPP Applied Computing Review , Volume 6 (1)
Association for Computing MachineryApr 1, 1998

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